boating on florida waterways is based on the personal experiences of the author.

 

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The boat - Yelen Blvd., cruising florida waterways

Destinations-St. Johns River

This section will contain destinations on the St. Johns River to which we have actually sailed. If you are traveling on the ICW from the south, check Destinations North and your Cruising Guides for directions to the St. Johns River. Underlined words are links to related pages along with personal comments. Click on underlined links to view descriptive web pages. REMEMBER --Marker #s often change so ALWAYS check that you are using the most recent references.  

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This trip was one of the most beautiful and interesting cruises that we have sailed in the State of Florida. The diversity ranges from industrial ports & metropolitan locations to tranquil days of enjoying the scenery and wild life. We dinghied into side waterways and creeks and felt as though we had gone back several hundred years in time. I hope that I can adequately portray this wonderful river, while at the same time, provide useful information.
Sanford, Florida is the southern terminus of the navigable river for a cruising boat. There is no southerly exit so that you will have to reverse course to Jacksonville in order to return to the ICW. We found the return trip just as exciting and enjoyable.
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  Jacksonville Beach to Jacksonville
(Refer to Charts: 11489, 11491 & 1492) 

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 JACKSONVILLE BEACH TO THE ST. JOHNS RIVER....Our starting point was Beach Marine. Continue north on the ICW and you will reach the Fixed Atlantic Beach Bridge. (Vertical Clearance 65' ft.) It is approximately 2.5 miles from the Marina. Continue on until you come to green marker 9. You will be approaching the intersection of the ICW and the St. Johns River. The St. Johns is a wide river.The St. John's River at this point has a strong current. The current is caused by the Johns Cut and continues strong through and beyond downtown Jacksonville, after which it will reduce as you continue further down the river. Large boat and Tanker traffic is heavy because Jacksonville is a major port. (On occasion, we have seen a Coast Guard boat cruise the area to give directions to boaters.) The St. Johns continues basically in a western direction and is well marked. After passing downtown Jacksonville, it will ultimately continue southerly. The charts are easily read and understood. 

At the joining point of the ICW and the St. Johns River, you will see head marker green #1 for the St. Johns Inlet. Keep this marker starboard and continue on a north westerly direction to the river. If you head toward the end of the inlet that opens into the Atlantic Ocean ( The opposite direction to where you are headed) , you would  pass the cut off channel  to the U.S. Naval Station in the Mayport Basin. This channel is off limits to pleasure craft, but if you look towards the ocean, you might be able to see some of the Naval ships.  After crossing the inlet, the chart shows an intersection between the St. Johns River and the Dames-Fulton Cutoff Range.  We took the Cutoff, approximately 269º,  because it is faster. (This works for us but PLEASE check your own course) There are no markers on this stretch but you will see the Dames Point Suspension Bridge (vertical clearance 169') in the distance. The full span is quite an impressive sight, so have your camera ready. Be sure to look up, when sailing underneath.  It is quite amazing to see a break between the two sides of the bridge that are not attached. I guess that's why they call it a Suspension Bridge. 

As you head into Jacksonville, keep an eye to the shoreline in order to see sights of interest. At times, some huge naval ships are docked along the river, large container ship loading areas, the famous Maxwell House Coffee sign of the dripping coffee pot, and the Aaltel Stadium , home of the Jaguars are some of them.

After passing the intersection to Trout River (marker # 64), follow the markers around Chaseville Turn and Long Branch Range. You will eventually reach the Matthews Point  Fixed Bridge ( vertical clearance 152' in Terminal Channel), the Hart Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance 135') and the Main Street Vertical Lift Bridge (vertical clearance when closed is 38' (according to the Bridge Tender) and 135' when open), before arriving at  the River City Brewing CO. Marina, in Jacksonville. (I couldn't find a link to the Marina, but information is in your Cruising Guide). We docked at River City in order to see downtown Jacksonville and The River Walk.  Prepare for for the strong currents when docking.  The Marina is nice and the surrounding atmosphere well worth a one night visit, but the currents and wakes produced uncomfortable rocking of the boat all through the entire evening.

We therefore left in the morning for Lamb's Yacht Marina on the Ortega River. Other Marinas in Jacksonville, which we have no experience with are are The Ortega River Boatyard and the Ortega Yacht Club Marina ( takes transients), which we have heard is very nice. If you are going to the Ortega River, continue reading.  If not, click here to continue on the St. John's River.

At this point, you MUST watch the chart & markers very carefully.  We used NOAA chart #11492 .  We had no trouble following the chart through the I 95 Fuller Warren Bridge ( Vertical Clearance 44 feet). Approximately 1.2 miles south (199 º ) (Again, this works for us but PLEASE check your own course) is a flashing red marker #2.  The water in the channel is deep, but keep an eye out for the shoals on either side, as charted.  Continue on that course until you are abeam and west of marker #3. Go west to marker #3 being cautious not to drift southerly as there are shoals at Sadler Point.  Passing #3, go southwesterly, following the deep water through Ortega Bascule Bridge (clearance 9'), continuing mid channel through the fixed Highway bridge clearance 45').   Immediately following the Highway Bridge is the railroad bridge (vertical Clearance 2')  The railroad bridge is kept open except when a train is coming.  Continue past  the Huckins Boat yard to Lambs Marina. For a more detailed description as well as recent changes in the numbering of the marker numbers, see Claiborne Young's Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida

If you are interested in Huckins, which is within walking distance of Lamb's Marina, you may luck out with a tour. Even though, wakes from other boats caused our boat  to rock during the daytime, it was quite calm at night. We thoroughly enjoyed this location.  Using our bicycles, we explored several sites in the area. There is a shopping center with a Super Market, West Marine, a Department store and a very good luncheonette.  We found an enormous used book store (as large as a library), where we browsed for a couple of hours and of course, replenished our reading material for the boat.  I cannot give accurate directions to these sites, but I'm sure that the Marina staff can give them to you.  To return to the St. Johns River, reverse your course and continue southerly.

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Jacksonville to Palatka
(Refer to Chart: 11492)

Continuing on the St. John's River, the river remains wide until after Palatka.  When you pass Piney Point, be sure to look towards the western shore (binoculars help) at the Jacksonville Naval Air Station.     The famous Blue Angels often come here and if you're lucky, you might spot one of their airplanes.  If you're even luckier, you might spot them practicing in the sky above you.

There are several marinas along the way.  Since we only cruised the St. Johns one time (this was a 900 mile round trip from Miami), we obviously could not stay in all of them.  On the way to Palatka, we stayed at the Continental Yacht Club Marina near Orange Park.  We have heard that they are no longer open to transients, but it might be worth a phone call to find out.  If you go there, approach very cautiously, because there were several spots that were shoaling at the time that we came in.  The docks were in need of repair, but the facilities were great. The elegant club is part of a Condo & Villa community.  There are three swimming pools, (an adult pool, a teenager pool and a kiddy pool).  We dined in the beautiful clubhouse and enjoyed the beautiful property.  A scenic bicycle path skirts the coastline, and shopping, restaurants etc. are all within cycling distance.  We visited Moose Haven , the retirement village of Moose Lodge members.  They often have craft shows there, and one can buy beautiful hand made objects..  We bought knitted baby clothes for less than the cost of the wool.  Our friend bought beautiful wood handcrafted toys.

On the way back from Palatka, we ran into a horrible storm and ducked into Whitney's Marine.   The Marina was so protected, that we hardly felt the strong waves generated by the storm.  Be sure to bring food with you as there were no restaurants close by at the time we were there.  We found the marina staff to be very helpful and pleasant.

Other marinas between Jacksonville and Palatka include the Mandarin Holiday Inn Marina (The link no longer exists, so I don't know if it is still in existence), The Boathouse Marina,  Julington Creek, Doctor's Lake Marina, Green Cove Springs Marina and Crystal Cove Marina.

Just south of Green Cove springs, at Smith Point on chart 11492, is the Green Cove Shands fixed Bridge (vertical clearance 45').  If you need more than 45' clearance, this is as far as you can go.  

In Palatka , we stayed at the Holiday Inn Docks.   The central location is ideal.  At the time that we went, there was no dock master.  You pulled into a slip and then went into the hotel to register it.  Be sure to visit the many Historic Sites in Palatka.  The tour through the Bronson-Mulholland House , circa 1856 was especially interesting.  If you are a railroad buff, you will enjoy the Railroad Museum .  We bicycled to the Ravine State Gardens , where we spent a delightful morning.  This park was a surprise to us.  It surrounds a deep ravine and gives one the feeling of being in the mountains (this is certainly a rarity in Florida).

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Palatka to Lake George
(Refer to Charts: 11492 & 11495)

PALATKA TO LAKE GEORGE....After navigating under the Palatka Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance 65ft) , the river narrows and becomes more scenic.  If you think that you can only eat at Burger King on land, think again. As you make the turn around Devil's Elbow (see chart), you will spot the restaurant to the north. You can follow its channel in, dock and have lunch. We did not navigate into Dunn's Creek, Crescent Lake and Murphy's Creek. If you wish to do this, navigation instructions are given in Claiborne Young's Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida . There are many other creeks and small rivers that join to the St. Johns. I will only describe the ones that we experienced, but I am sure that they all have something to offer. Most of them are shallow and only navigable by dinghy. Even if you can't go into the creeks, try to look into them. You might see interesting sights and wildlife. For instance, when you pass Stokes Island, peer into the surrounding creek. There is a large ship building facility there and you might spot a new boat being built. You will soon pass the entrance to the Cross-Florida Barge Canal. The building of the canal, that was supposed to go all the way to the Gulf of Mexico, was stopped, due to environment concerns. We entered into the lock, cruised a while into the canal and then returned to the river. The scenery on the canal bank is quite plain, but we spotted lots of alligators, herons, a wild turkey and other bird life. As you continue up to Welaka , you will pass, if it is still there, what is locally known as the Tug Boat Graveyard. We saw two big rusted tugs, a barge, and tucked between them was President Kennedy's old yacht, The Fitz (we couldn't get close enough to see what shape she was in). In Welaka , we stayed at the Acosta Creek Marina, which we found to be excellent. (Check your Cruising Guide for other marinas) If Norm is still the Dock Master, he will enthusiastically give you information and directions to dinghy the surrounding area. We enjoyed Welaka so much, that we stayed for a week. We dinghied a little south of Acosta Marina on the Ocklawaha River (the water is very shallow) and also Bear Creek, which joins the Ocklawaha. The Ocklawaha River was dammed up when the Cross-Florida Barge Canal was being built. You can only go as far as the Rodman Dam. Upon entering the river, we felt like little kids seeing Disney World for the first time. The scenery was breath taking and I can't adequately describe it. It was like being in Florida before it was settled. The Cypress trees, alligators, many species of birds, etc. were sights to behold. The only signs of civilization until the Rodman Dam were some pontoons and other shallow fishing craft. There is a landing just before the bridge at Rodman Dam, and this is a good time to break for a picnic lunch before returning to the St. Johns. There is current talk of removing the Rodman Dam and restoring the Ocklawaha to its former state, when it flowed from the St. Johns River all the way up to Silver Springs in Ocala. While in Welaka, be sure to visit the Welaka Landing Boat Shop. When we were there, Rand Speas, the owner, stopped what he was doing and spent about an hour with us. He showed us his facility and several of the boat restorations, he was working on. We were very impressed. You might also wish to visit the Welaka National Fish Hatchery . If the Palms Restaurant still exists, check it out. They sent a car to pick us up and return us to the Marina. The food was excellent and very reasonable in price. We still can't figure out how we could stay a full week in a place with one traffic light, one Quick Stop convenience store at a gas station, and a downtown area that could be covered in about 4 minutes, but we did and we enjoyed every minute of it. In fact, we hope to go back by car, rent a dinghy and do it all over again.

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Lake George to Sanford
(Refer to Charts: 11492 & 11495)
LAKE GEORGE TO SANFORD.....Welaka was as far as we went, but the navigable part of the river goes as far south as Sanford.   You will sail through Lake George, pass the city of Astor, pass through Blue Springs State Park , and end up in Sanford. 

Since we didn't travel this route, we are not familiar with the marinas en route, but I have been told that Monroe Harbor Marina   in Sanford is quite nice. It is near the historic downtown area, where one can take an educational walking tour .  Monroe Harbor Marina also has a nice page about the river.   One of the most useful items on the page is a chart showing the distances between major points on the river from the ICW south. I have also been advised that Hidden Harbor Marina has fine facilities also.

At some point in time, we would like to cruise the St. Johns River again and go as far as Sanford. 

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