boating on florida waterways
is based on the personal experiences of the author.
The boat - Yelen Blvd., cruising florida waterways
Destinations-St. Johns River
This section will contain
destinations on the St. Johns River to which we have actually
sailed. If you are traveling on the ICW from the south, check
Destinations
North
and your Cruising Guides for directions to the St. Johns River.
Underlined words are links to related pages along with personal
comments. Click on underlined links to view descriptive web
pages. REMEMBER
--Marker #s often change so ALWAYS check that you are using
the most recent references.
This trip was one
of the most beautiful and interesting cruises that we have
sailed in the State of Florida. The diversity ranges from
industrial ports & metropolitan locations to tranquil
days of enjoying the scenery and wild life. We dinghied into
side waterways and creeks and felt as though we had gone back
several hundred years in time. I hope that I can adequately
portray this wonderful river, while at the same time, provide
useful information. Sanford,
Florida is the southern terminus of the navigable river for
a cruising boat. There is no southerly exit so that you will
have to reverse course to Jacksonville in order to return
to the ICW. We found the return trip just as exciting and
enjoyable.
Jacksonville Beach to Jacksonville
(Refer to Charts: 11489, 11491
& 1492)
JACKSONVILLE
BEACH TO THE ST. JOHNS RIVER....Our
starting point was
Beach
Marine.
Continue north on the ICW and you will reach the Fixed Atlantic
Beach Bridge. (Vertical Clearance 65' ft.) It is approximately
2.5 miles from the Marina. Continue on until you come to green
marker 9. You will be approaching the intersection of the
ICW and the St. Johns River. The St. Johns is a wide river.The
St. John's
River at this point has a strong current. The current is caused
by the Johns Cut and continues strong through and beyond downtown
Jacksonville, after which it will reduce as you continue further
down the river. Large boat and Tanker traffic is heavy because
Jacksonville is a major port. (On occasion, we have seen a
Coast Guard boat cruise the area to give directions to boaters.)
The St. Johns continues basically in a western direction and
is well marked. After passing downtown Jacksonville, it will
ultimately continue southerly. The charts are easily read
and understood.
At
the joining point of the ICW and the St. Johns River, you
will see head marker green #1 for the St. Johns Inlet.Keep this marker starboard and continue
on a north westerly direction to the river. If
you head toward the end of the inlet that opens into the Atlantic
Ocean ( The opposite direction to where
you are headed) , you would pass
the cut off channel to the U.S. Naval Station in the
Mayport Basin. This channel is off limits to pleasure craft,
but if you look towards the ocean, you might be able to see
some of the Naval ships. After crossing the inlet, the
chart shows an intersection between the
St. Johns River and the Dames-Fulton Cutoff Range. We
took the Cutoff, approximately 269º, because
it is faster. (This works
for us but PLEASE check your own course)
There are no markers on this stretch but you will see the
Dames
Point Suspension Bridge(vertical clearance 169') in
the distance. The
full
span
is quite an impressive sight, so have your camera ready. Be
sure to look up, when sailing underneath. It is quite
amazing to see a break between the two sides of the bridge
that are not attached. I guess that's why they call it a Suspension
Bridge.
As
you head into Jacksonville, keep an eye to the shoreline in
order to see sights of interest. At times, some huge naval
ships are docked along the river, large container ship loading
areas, the famous Maxwell House Coffee sign of the dripping
coffee pot, and the
Aaltel
Stadium
, home of the Jaguars are some of them.
After
passing the intersection to Trout River (marker # 64), follow
the markers around Chaseville Turn and Long Branch Range.
You will eventually reach the Matthews Point
Fixed Bridge ( vertical
clearance 152' in Terminal Channel), the
Hart Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance 135') and the
Main Street Vertical Lift Bridge (vertical clearance when
closed is 38' (according to the Bridge Tender) and 135' when
open), before arriving at the River City Brewing
CO. Marina, in Jacksonville.
(I couldn't find a link to the Marina, but information
is in your Cruising Guide). Wedocked at River
City in order to see downtown Jacksonville
and The River Walk. Prepare for for the strong currents
when docking. The Marina is nice and
the surrounding atmosphere well worth a one night visit, but
the currents and wakes produced uncomfortable rocking of the
boat all through the entire evening.
At
this point, you MUST watch the chart & markers very carefully.
We used NOAA chart #11492 . We had no trouble following
the chart through the I 95 Fuller Warren Bridge (
Vertical Clearance 44 feet). Approximately 1.2 miles south
(199 º ) (Again,
this works for us but PLEASE check your own course)is a flashing red marker #2.
The water in the channel is
deep, but keep an eye out for the shoals on either side, as
charted. Continue
on that course until you are abeam and west of marker #3.
Go west to marker #3 being cautious not to drift southerly
as there are shoals at Sadler Point. Passing #3, go
southwesterly, following the deep water through Ortega Bascule
Bridge (clearance 9'), continuing mid channel through
the fixed Highway bridge clearance 45').
Immediately following the Highway Bridge is the railroad bridge
(vertical Clearance 2') The railroad bridge is
kept open except when a train is coming. Continue past
the Huckins Boat yard to
Lambs
Marina.For a more detailed description
as well as recent changes in the numbering of the marker numbers,
see Claiborne Young's
Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida
If
you are interested in Huckins, which is within walking distance
of Lamb's Marina, you may luck out with a tour. Even though,
wakes from other boats caused our boat to rock during
the daytime, it was quite calm at night. We thoroughly enjoyed
this location. Using our bicycles, we explored several
sites in the area. There is a shopping center with a Super
Market, West Marine, a Department store and a very good luncheonette.
We found an enormous used book store (as large as a library),
where we browsed for a couple of hours and of course, replenished
our reading material for the boat. I cannot give accurate
directions to these sites, but I'm sure that the Marina staff
can give them to you. To return to the St. Johns
River, reverse your course and continue southerly.
Continuing on the St. John's River,
the river remains wide until after Palatka. When you pass Piney
Point, be sure to look towards the western shore (binoculars help)
at the
Jacksonville
Naval Air Station.
The famous
Blue Angels
often come here and if you're lucky, you might spot one of their airplanes.
If you're even luckier, you might spot them practicing in the sky
above you.
There are several marinas
along the way. Since we only cruised the St. Johns one time
(this was a 900 mile round trip from Miami), we obviously could not
stay in all of them. On the way to Palatka, we stayed at the
Continental Yacht
Club Marina
near Orange Park. We have heard that they are no longer open
to transients, but it might be worth a phone call to find out.
If you go there, approach very cautiously, because there were several
spots that were shoaling at the time that we came in. The docks
were in need of repair, but the facilities were great. The elegant
club is part of a Condo & Villa community. There are three
swimming pools, (an adult pool, a teenager pool and a kiddy pool).
We dined in the beautiful clubhouse and enjoyed the beautiful property.
A scenic bicycle path skirts the coastline, and shopping, restaurants
etc. are all within cycling distance. We visited Moose Haven
, the retirement village of Moose Lodge members. They often
have craft shows there, and one can buy beautiful hand made objects..
We bought knitted baby clothes for less than the cost of the wool.
Our friend bought beautiful wood handcrafted toys.
On the way back from Palatka,
we ran into a horrible storm and ducked into
Whitney's
Marine.
The Marina was so protected, that we hardly felt the strong
waves generated by the storm. Be sure to bring food with you
as there were no restaurants close by at the time we were there.
We found the marina staff to be very helpful and pleasant.
Other marinas between Jacksonville
and Palatka include the Mandarin Holiday Inn Marina (The link no
longer exists, so I don't know if it is still in existence), The
Boathouse Marina, Julington Creek, Doctor's Lake Marina, Green
Cove Springs Marina and Crystal Cove Marina.
Just
south of Green Cove springs, at Smith Point on chart 11492, is the
Green Cove Shands fixed Bridge (vertical clearance 45'). If
you need more than 45' clearance, this is as far as you can go.
In
Palatka
, we stayed at the Holiday Inn Docks. The central location
is ideal. At the time that we went, there was no dock master.
You pulled into a slip and then went into the hotel to register it.
Be sure to visit the many
Historic
Sites
in Palatka. The tour through the
Bronson-Mulholland
House
, circa 1856 was especially interesting. If you are a railroad
buff, you will enjoy the
Railroad Museum
. We bicycled to the
Ravine
State Gardens
, where we spent a delightful morning. This park was a surprise
to us. It surrounds a deep ravine and gives one the feeling
of being in the mountains (this is certainly a rarity in Florida).
Palatka to Lake George
(Refer to Charts: 11492 & 11495)
PALATKA TO LAKE GEORGE....After
navigating under the Palatka Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance
65ft) , the river narrows and becomes more scenic. If you think
that you can only eat at Burger King on land, think again. As you
make the turn around Devil's Elbow (see chart), you will spot the
restaurant to the north. You can follow its channel in, dock and have
lunch. We did not navigate into Dunn's Creek, Crescent Lake and Murphy's
Creek. If you wish to do this, navigation instructions are given in
Claiborne Young's
Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida .
There are many other creeks and small rivers that join to the St.
Johns. I will only describe the ones that we experienced, but I am
sure that they all have something to offer. Most of them are shallow
and only navigable by dinghy. Even if you can't go into the creeks,
try to look into them. You might see interesting sights and wildlife.
For instance, when you pass Stokes Island, peer into the surrounding
creek. There is a large ship building facility there and you might
spot a new boat being built. You will soon pass the entrance to the
Cross-Florida Barge Canal. The building of the canal, that was supposed
to go all the way to the Gulf of Mexico, was stopped, due to environment
concerns. We entered into the lock, cruised a while into the canal
and then returned to the river. The scenery on the canal bank is quite
plain, but we spotted lots of alligators, herons, a wild turkey and
other bird life. As you continue up to Welaka , you will pass, if
it is still there, what is locally known as the Tug Boat Graveyard.
We saw two big rusted tugs, a barge, and tucked between them was President
Kennedy's old yacht, The Fitz (we couldn't get close enough to see
what shape she was in). In Welaka , we stayed at the Acosta Creek
Marina, which we found to be excellent. (Check your Cruising Guide
for other marinas) If Norm is still the Dock Master, he will enthusiastically
give you information and directions to dinghy the surrounding area.
We enjoyed Welaka so much, that we stayed for a week. We dinghied
a little south of Acosta Marina on the Ocklawaha River (the water
is very shallow) and also Bear Creek, which joins the Ocklawaha. The
Ocklawaha River was dammed up when the Cross-Florida Barge Canal was
being built. You can only go as far as the Rodman Dam. Upon entering
the river, we felt like little kids seeing Disney World for the first
time. The scenery was breath taking and I can't adequately describe
it. It was like being in Florida before it was settled. The Cypress
trees, alligators, many species of birds, etc. were sights to behold.
The only signs of civilization until the Rodman Dam were some pontoons
and other shallow fishing craft. There is a landing just before the
bridge at Rodman Dam, and this is a good time to break for a picnic
lunch before returning to the St. Johns. There is current talk of
removing the Rodman Dam and restoring the Ocklawaha to its former
state, when it flowed from the St. Johns River all the way up to Silver
Springs in Ocala. While in Welaka, be sure to visit the Welaka Landing
Boat Shop. When we were there, Rand Speas, the owner, stopped what
he was doing and spent about an hour with us. He showed us his facility
and several of the boat restorations, he was working on. We were very
impressed. You might also wish to visit the Welaka National Fish Hatchery
. If the Palms Restaurant still exists, check it out. They sent a
car to pick us up and return us to the Marina. The food was excellent
and very reasonable in price. We still can't figure out how we could
stay a full week in a place with one traffic light, one Quick Stop
convenience store at a gas station, and a downtown area that could
be covered in about 4 minutes, but we did and we enjoyed every minute
of it. In fact, we hope to go back by car, rent a dinghy and do it
all over again.
Lake George to Sanford
(Refer to Charts: 11492 & 11495)
LAKE GEORGE TO SANFORD.....Welaka
was as far as we went, but the navigable part of the river goes as
far south as
Sanford.
You will sail through
Lake George,
pass the city of
Astor,
pass through
Blue Springs State Park
, and end up in Sanford.
Since we didn't travel this route,
we are not familiar with the marinas en route, but I have been told
that
Monroe Harbor
Marina
in Sanford is quite nice. It is near the historic downtown
area, where one can take an educational
walking
tour
. Monroe Harbor Marina also has
a
nice page about the river.
One of the most useful items on the page is a chart showing
the distances between major points on the river from the ICW south.
I have also been advised that
Hidden
Harbor Marina
has fine facilities also.
At some point in time, we would
like to cruise the St. Johns River again and go as far as Sanford.
All
information on this web site is provided as a free service. Under
no conditions does it constitute professional advice. No representations
are made as to the completeness, accuracy, comprehensiveness or
otherwise of the data and information provided